Ait Ben Haddou is a well-preserved, sparsely inhabited fortress town (xar) 29 kilometres from the town of Ouarzazate (Quarzazate) in southern Morocco. This outstanding monument of local mud-brick architecture is a UNESCO site.
Brief history
Ait Ben Haddou is located on a hillside on the left bank of the Unila River. On the other side of the hilltop is the medieval mausoleum-tomb of the holy hermit Ben-Haddou, after whom the town was named.
Along the riverbed, the caravan route between the famous African cities of Marrakech and Tombouctou through Zagora has long been travelled. Along the way, fortified points - xaras - were built. The emergence of the whole town of Ait-Ben-Haddou is supposedly dated back to the 11th century. In it, trade caravans rested and replenished their provisions and water.
After a few centuries, the trans-Saharan trade declined and Xar fell into decline. Its main population moved to a village on the opposite, right bank of the Ouarzazate River. The abandoned houses made of unstable clay and thatch were crumbling. By the end of the 20th century, only 10 families lived in Ait Ben Haddou. Fortunately, the Moroccan authorities recognised the tourist potential of the settlement. It was decided to restore its crumbling housing stock and turn the ksar into a tourist centre. Much of this work has already been carried out.
The extremely cinematic buildings of Ait Ben Haddou have been a favourite place for filmmakers since the middle of the 20th century. They have served as natural sets for famous historical films made by Hollywood and other film companies. These include "Sodom and Gomorrah", "Jesus of Nazareth", and "The Last Temptation of Christ" based on biblical events.
Description
Photo: Markus Wagner. Source: Unsplash
All Xar structures are made of red-brown mud bricks, tamped earth, adobe, and wood. Conventional dwellings with flat roofs and corner fortified "kasbahs" with turrets-terraces climb the hill, and horizontal streets are linked by arches and narrow passageways. The upper parts of some houses are decorated with geometric ornaments. There is also a mosque at the top of the hill, which is now closed. From the top there is a memorable view of the settlement, the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara.
There are several entrances to the ksar: the extreme left and right in the city wall are free, while entrances through private dwellings are chargeable. In one of these houses an ethnographic museum, initiated by the residents, charges two dollars for admission.
Many mud-brick kasbahs with towers are surrounded by malachite palm groves. Ksar is particularly colourful in dawn and dusk light.
The UNESCO protected status of the site makes one optimistic about the future of this unique oasis of medieval earthen architecture.
How to get there
The Ait Ben Haddou location is included in many Morocco tours.
When visiting on your own, the most comfortable but costly way to get to the attraction is to hire a "grand taxi" in 1970s Mercedes S-Class cars. The trip from Ouarzazate and back with allotment of two hours to see the ksar will cost the traveller 140 - 180 Moroccan dirhams (1 MAD = 10 RUR).
A more budget-friendly alternative is the Ouarzazate - Marrakech bus, which can take you for 10 MAD to a junction 9 kilometres from Ait Ben Haddou. Once off, you'll have to stop for a hitchhiker: there's no regular transport.
There is no public transport in Ait Ben Haddou itself. Travelling is on foot, with constant climbing. There are a few hotels in the ksar that you can stay in if you wish. They are located on the other side of the river. The transport connection between the banks is by donkey. For a couple of euros locals are ready to transport a tourist across the river on their donkey. Alternatively, you can cross the river for free (water is up to your ankles) or for one euro on special sandbags accompanied by locals.
