Istanbul is not the capital of Turkey, but its most famous city. A city not only of world renown, but also of incredible geography and history. Perched majestically on the banks of the Bosphorus, it is the only Turkish city that is both in Asia and Europe. It is through this metropolis that the border of the continents runs, and here the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara meet.
Its history impresses even the most sophisticated. It is the capital of 4 bygone empires at once - Roman, Byzantine, Latin, Ottoman. No wonder that half of Turkey's cultural and historical heritage is located in Istanbul. Not only the most valuable artefacts of the city's museums, but also monuments of ancient architecture: fortresses, palaces, mosques and temples of world fame. And the main historical, religious and architectural attraction is Aya Sofia.
This cathedral-mosque-museum is located in a key place - at the confluence of the Great Bosphorus and Golden Horn straits. Since ancient times, the main sea trade route from the Black Sea through the Marmara Sea to the Mediterranean Sea has been running here. And to the eyes of seafarers appeared indescribable beauty and grandeur of the Cathedral of St Sophia.
For 15 centuries, an architectural creation, in whatever status, has graced Istanbul. It is called the eighth wonder of the world, it is admired, it is painted, it is prayed to. It is:
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one of the most magnificent museums in the world.
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the pride of the World Heritage List
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unique architectural structure
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a shrine to 2 world religions
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for almost 10 centuries, the main religious symbol of Byzantium and the Christian world
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a brilliant embodiment of the idea of the temple as an image of the Divine Universe.
And also the Cathedral of Ayia Sophia remained in history as a place of division of the Christian Church into Orthodox and Catholic. It was here on 16 July 1054, the legate of the Pope during the divine service handed the excommunication letter to the patriarch of Constantinople. In response, Patriarch Michael Kerullarius anathematised the papal legates..
Background and history of the appearance of St Sophia
The year 532 is considered the beginning of the history of the great cathedral. Although the first Christian church was built back under the Byzantine Emperor Constantine. It was erected on the site of the ancient temple of the goddess Artemis, in the market square Augusteon. What was on this site before is unknown, but it is absolutely certain that it was something significant. Judging by the privileged location and the powerful energy of the cathedral, considered a place of power.
The next emperor, Constantius, slightly expanded the construction. It was during his reign that the temple was consecrated under the name of Sophia, in Greek, "Aya Sophia."
Constantius was the next emperor, Constantius, to expand the building slightly.
Contrary to popular misconception, the cathedral was named not in honour of Saint Sophia, but in honour of Divine Wisdom - sofia in Greek means wisdom. The built temple was destroyed by fire in 404, the newly rebuilt one was burnt down in 415. Under Emperor Theodosius the temple of Sophia was restored in its former splendour.
In 532 there was the largest in Byzantine history revolt in Constantinople, known in history as the revolt "Nika" (translated from Greek - "Defeat"). This was the slogan of the rebels against tax oppression and officialdom. The ruling emperor Justinian brutally suppressed the rebellion, by his order more than 30 thousand rebels were killed. However, the destruction in the city was enormous, again perished in the fire and the temple of Aya Sofia.
40 days after suppression of revolt on Justinian's order on a place of burnt down the construction of a new cathedral began. There is an opinion of historians that the emperor gave a vow to erect a basilica to atone for the murder of people who rebelled against him. Most sources say that the Byzantine ruler simply decided to create a temple to immortalise his rule, to decorate the capital and to demonstrate to the world the greatness of the Byzantine Empire.
Surpass Solomon
Photo: Zayn Shah. Source: Unsplash
The concept was grandiose. It required a much larger area than the burnt basilica had occupied. And the nearest plots of land were bought from the owners. According to legend, an angel in a dream brought the ruler a plan of construction. And to realise it Justinian entrusted the best architects of that time: Isidore from Miletus and Anfimiyu from Trall. They were not just the best builders, but also outstanding engineers, scientists and mathematicians.
Another 100 architects were brought in to help them. Each of whom managed a hundred masons. During 5 years, from 532 to 537, 10 000 workers worked on the construction of the new symbol of Constantinople. Their wages were paid daily. The Emperor himself controlled the construction - appeared there in a simple linen garment almost every day.
The final estimate of the construction of the Cathedral of St Sophia was 3 annual budget of Byzantium, the richest state in the world at that time. And it is not surprising. In finishing of a brick temple silver, gold, ornamental stones, ivory were used. And the bricks themselves - strong and light - were brought from the island of Rhodes, where they were made from local limestone.
Snow-white marble was brought from the island of Prokonessos and from Hierapolis (today's Pamukkale), pink marble from Phrygia, purple from Egypt, yellow from Libya, etc. A total of 12 varieties of marble were used in construction. Marble slabs and stones were sawn in such a way that the veins were folded into images of animals, people and plants. At Justinian's command, 8 porphyry columns were brought from the Roman temple of the Sun. Another 8 of green marble were brought from Ephesus, the sacred city of the goddess Artemis. According to different sources, architectural elements from earlier, already destroying, Christian and pagan temples were brought here. Thus, St Sophia became the centre not only of masterpieces of world art and architecture, but also of the energy of many religious buildings.
The temple even in the period of construction struck the imagination and awakened the popular imagination. The most widespread legend was the participation in the construction of the cathedral of heavenly forces. There is also a legend that Justinian in aspiration to make a construction the most grandiose in the world has decided to cover with gold internal walls. He was stopped by the astrologers' prediction that at the end of the centuries poor kings would rule. And they will "build the temple to the ground" to seize its wealth.
And without that, built cathedral turned out so magnificent that, entering it, Justinian fell to his knees and exclaimed: "Solomon, I have surpassed you!" From which it is clear that for the ambitious emperor his own fame was not an empty sound. And with the erection of the Ayia Sofia cathedral, he sought to eclipse the so-called First Temple built by King Solomon in Jerusalem. This he succeeded in doing.
Aya Sofia through the eyes of 6th century contemporaries
After 5 years, in December 537, in the Christmas holidays, Constantinople patriarch Mina made the rite of consecration of the cathedral of St Sophia. By the way, for VI century term of erection was a record. The received masterpiece of art of architects and builders, a miracle of engineering thought, for many centuries became the largest in the world Christian temple. Until the erection of St Peter's Cathedral in Rome at the end of the 16th century.
Aya Sofia Cathedral was an incredible sight. Erected on a hill, it was so prominent above Constantinople that the capital was visible from it as in the palm of one's hand. The rectangular building (with sides of 72 and 79 metres) is crowned by a gigantic dome with a diameter of 31 metres and a height of 55.6 metres. Its weight is supported by 4 enormous pillars, which are supported by huge arches.
At the centre of the whole composition is the dome, it represents the universal unity with God and embodies the dome of heaven embracing the whole world. Radial arches under it rise upwards, and it seems that the dome "floats" above the cathedral. The windows between the 40 arches create a light belt effect, enhancing the feeling of the dome's soaring.
In general, light is the strongest expressive means in the space of Aya Sofia Cathedral. There are no contrasting light zones in it. Numerous windows let in so many light rays that the cathedral is completely flooded with light. It causes amazing sensations. There is a famous enthusiastic quote from the letter of Russian ambassadors to Prince Vladimir after visiting the temple of St Sophia: "We do not know whether we are in heaven or on earth. We know only that here God with love abides". In short, the cathedral fully epitomised divine wisdom.
At night, the temple was lit by lamps in the shape of trees and ships. Enthusiastic Byzantines believed that this splendour banished darkness from the soul.
And one more quote. It belongs to the Byzantine historian, author of the main chronicles of Justinian's reign, Procopius of Caesarea: "Who would calculate the splendour of the columns and marbles with which the temple is adorned? One would think that one is in a luxurious meadow covered with flowers. How can one not marvel at their purple or emerald colour, as if nature were their artist. This temple was a marvellous sight. In height it rises as if to the sky and, like a ship on the high waves of the sea, it stands out among other buildings. The temple adorns the city, is itself adorned by it."
And this is not the flattery of a court essayist. It is an expression of the universal admiration of contemporaries before the greatest creation of human hands. St Sophia, this undoubted miracle of architecture, became a special link connecting the art of Mediterranean civilisations - the bygone masterpieces of the classics of the Romans and Hellenes - and the future art of the Middle Ages. The reign of Justinian the Great is called the Golden Age of the Empire. And the cathedral built by him can be called the pinnacle of this reign.
Contemporaries called Aya Sofia a great cathedral, it corresponded to reality. Divine services in the huge temple were performed by 525 church servants, including 60 priests and 100 deacons. Later, under Heraclius I, the service was conducted by 600 people. During church services silver utensils decorated with precious stones were used. The throne of the temple was made of gold, copper, glass, onyx, jahont and diamonds. The altar barrier with images of Christ, the holy Archangels, the Virgin Mary, apostles and prophets - silver coinage - is considered the main ornament of the cathedral..
The fall of a Christian shrine
Photo: Raimond Klavins. Source: Unsplash
Hagia Sophia Cathedral has survived fires and earthquakes, sometimes violent ones. And each time, after the restoration, shone with its former splendour. Even the plundering of the interior decoration by the Crusaders in the early XIII century did not shake the Christian stronghold. The decline of the greatness of Aya Sofia came simultaneously with the capture of Constantinople and the fall of Byzantium.
29 May 1453 is one of the dates that determined the entire course of world history. On this day the troops of the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II after a three-week siege stormed Constantinople. So ended a thousand-year history of the Byzantine Empire, a great power, the heir to ancient Rome.
The last Christian service in the Cathedral of St Sophia took place the night before the capture of the city. It could be called a requiem - for a dying Byzantium. The last ruler of empire Constantine XI and his retinue said goodbye to the patriarch. The next day the temple was captured by Turkish troops. According to the descriptions of historians, the Turks behaved barbarously. Swords broke locked gates, chopped to pieces icons with images of Christian saints, from which preliminary tore off ornaments. In Sacred Sofia at this time still prayed Christians which were brutally killed. According to legend, the blood was spilled so much that its level even marked a red stripe on one of the columns.
In various sources when describing the capture of Constantinople it is told that the Cathedral of St Sophia was illuminated by a bright glow, which through the windows of the dome went straight into the sky. It is believed that it is the cathedral left his guardian angel.
Mosque
Photo: Raimond Klavins. Source: Unsplash
When Sultan Mehmed Fatih II entered the cathedral, he was amazed by its splendour and immediately ordered to stop the destruction of the temple. The beauty of the cathedral of Sacred Sofia has protected it from destruction. And many churches of Constantinople have managed to survive thanks to beautiful architecture.
In Aya Sofia, however, the Sultan decided to found a mosque. The first minaret built near the temple was wooden. Later the former temple received 3 more minarets and acquired the look familiar to the whole world today. The new mosque was named Aya Sofia.
In the 16th century, the mosque was added:
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its mihrab - a niche in the wall that points Muslims in the direction of where Mecca is located
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the place for the muezzin from which the call to prayer is sounded
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a special throne.
Each of the ruling sultans contributed to the improvement of the Aya Sofia Mosque. Mahmud I added a library to it. In the 18th century, a place for ablutions according to Islamic tradition was built in front of the entrance to the mosque. A little later, Aya Sofia had rooms for ministers and a primary school was opened.
By order of Sultan Abdul-Mejid I, the restoration of the Ayya Hagia Sophia building began in 1847. The reason was the threatened collapse of the mosque. The works lasted for 2 years. Swiss architects Fossati brothers reinforced marble columns, strengthened vaults and dome of the temple. It was they who discovered Byzantine mosaics on the walls, which were once carefully plastered by the Turks. The architects showed the Sultan some of them, which they had managed to clear. But Abdul-Mejid ordered all the faces of the saints to be whitewashed again. And on the columns of the cathedral they placed 8-metre high shields of wood covered with leather. The names of Allah and the Prophet Muhammad were written on them."
During the Ottoman Empire, the mosque also served as a tomb where sultans and members of the reigning dynasties were buried. The Ottomans took Aya Sofia as a model. According to it other mosques of Istanbul were built.
Museum
In World War I, the Ottoman Empire was defeated. In 1922, the monarchy was abolished. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk came to power and proclaimed the Republic of Turkey. The fate of Aya Sofia Cathedral was decided only in 1935. Atatürk signed a decree that gave the mosque the status of a museum and made it available to visitors.
At the same time, the cathedral began to be restored. The process was led by the American archaeologist T. Whittemore. His team first of all peeled off layers of lime from priceless mosaics and frescoes from the time of Justinian and later periods. When the prayer rugs were removed, the magnificent marble floors of Hagia Sophia were revealed.
After the restoration, visitors were able to appreciate the interior of Hagia Sophia in all its splendour and splendour. Especially its most interesting mosaics, created at different times by different authors. This is a whole mosaic cycle with biblical and secular subject compositions.
Priceless mosaics and more
Photo: Raimond Klavins. Source: Unsplash
A significant number of mosaics were made as early as the 6th century, during the time of Justinian. These ornaments are located in the main arch, galleries and naves. Later, in the IX-XIV centuries, mosaics with images of saints appeared. The most interesting ones are:
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The Blessed Virgin Mary on a throne holding the Christ Child on her knees, flanked by 2 archangels. The face of the Virgin Mary bribes with spirituality
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The 12 Apostles and the holy patriarchs of Constantinople Herman, Tarasius, Nicephorus and Methodius
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Old Testament prophets and saints in vestments falling in calm folds
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Image of Jesus Christ on a throne, he holds the Gospel in his left hand and blesses with his right hand. The open gospel shows the words, "Peace be with you! I am the light of the world." On his sides are depicted the figures of the Virgin Mary and Archangel Michael
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St Sophia, the image of the martyr as the personification of wisdom.
All the mosaics are exquisitely beautiful and executed with the greatest skill. Figures are proportional, countenances are spiritualised, colour transitions are soft and subtle. Of course, the Byzantine rulers did not forget about themselves. On the mosaics immortalised almost all emperors.
Funny story of a fresco depicting Christ with Emperor Constantine and Empress Zoe. The vivacious lady was married several times, mostly to rulers. In the original image next to her was her second husband, Emperor Michael IV. When Michael V came to power, Zoya was banished and her portrait on the mosaic was removed. But she managed to return and married again - with Emperor Constantine Monomakh. And achieved the return of her beloved self on the fresco.
And the very first mosaic above the gate depicts the Emperor Leo VI: under the strict gaze of the Virgin Mary and Archangel Gabriel he begs Jesus Christ for forgiveness... for entering into 4 (!) non-canonical marriage.
The restoration revealed not only the most beautiful mosaics. On the walls and other surfaces, the architects found about 70 inscriptions-graffiti of East Slavic origin. They were left by representatives of the Russian embassies in Constantinople.
On the marble surfaces of Aya Sofia found and Scandinavian runes. Probably, these inscriptions have made in the Middle Ages Vikings which were hired in imperial guard.
The creation of the museum caused great resonance and considerable controversy in Turkish society. For decades they have stirred up the Muslim public. Proposals and even demands to return Aya Sofia to the status of a mosque were made again and again. Even Ataturk's signature on the decree on the creation of the museum was recognised as fake.
The authorities' concessions were gradual. In 2006, a room was set up in Aya Sofia where museum staff could perform Muslim religious rituals."
Still, in the summer of 2020, the former cathedral became a mosque again. Ataturk's decree was annulled and the first Friday prayers were held on 24 July. Accordingly, there were significant changes in the interior as well. Since depicting people and animals is forbidden in Islam, all Byzantine mosaics were again covered. In order not to traumatise the feelings of faithful Muslims. Only elements of Islamic decoration remained.
The rules for tourists have also changed. Now at the entrance to Aya Sofia it is necessary to remove shoes for everyone, without exception. In addition, you can visit the cathedral only between namaz, and they are held 5 times a day. In return, tourists receive some kind of compensation - due to the change in the status of the building the entrance to the museum became free.
The decision to transfer Aya Sofia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to a mosque was criticised by the world community. But Turkey's president decided he had to support his people's proposal.
Secrets and mysteries of the ancient cathedral
Photo: Raimond Klavins. Source: Unsplash
The uniqueness, grandeur and supernatural luxury of the cathedral give rise to many legends. For example, there are 361 doors in Aya Sofia, of which 101 are large doors covered with symbols. Every time all the doors start to be counted, new ones are discovered.
In front of the entrance to Aya Sofia is a spacious courtyard with a fountain. The right to enter through the centre gate was given only to the emperor and the patriarch. It is believed that the imperial gate is made of wooden parts of Noah's Ark. If it is known that the legendary vessel is located on Mount Ararat, how did its designs get to Byzantium? This is one of the mysteries of St Sophia.
If you turn a little to the right in the huge hall where the coronations of Byzantine emperors took place, you can see a small niche. Near it you can always hear a noise, it comes from the wall. Legend has it that during the storming of Constantinople the Turks broke into the temple where the believers were praying. Already swords were chopping the heads of Christians, but the priest was still reading the prayer. When the sword was brought over his head, the wall of the temple suddenly opened, and the priest stepped into it. The noise the visitors hear is that clergyman's prayer. He recites it throughout the ages. When Aya Sophia becomes Christian again, the priest will step out and continue the service. The legend is beautiful and serves to strengthen the faith. Where the noise in the wall comes from remains a mystery.
Another mystery is the "Weeping Column." The place is easy to find by the queue stretching towards it. The phenomenon has been known since the eleventh century. Here each of the religions played the mystery in their own way and created their own legends.
- 1 Christian: a thousand years ago near the column there was an apparition of Gregory the Wonderworker. After which it began to "cry" healing tears. It is necessary to come and lean against the column with the place that hurts. The ailment will be cured. By the way, it is said that the first "patient" of the column was Justinian.
- 2 Christian legend exists in 2 variants. According to the first, in the column sits an angel, according to the second, there are holy relics. In any case, the result will be positive, the main thing is to believe.
- 1 Islamic legend. When Aya Sofia was being turned into a mosque, the saliva of the Prophet Muhammad, earth from Mecca and water from the Zam Zam spring were added to the mortar to strengthen the pillar. The pillar then began to release moisture.
- 2 Muslim version - not canonical. The column began to "weep" when some of the sultans disowned his beloved. She passed away from grief, at which point the column "wept" at the sultan's cruelty. Given the presence of harems in every ruler, the version is more like a mere fairy tale.
- Representatives of Islam turned out to be more mercantile. If at Christians tears of a column heal, at Muslims - fulfil a wish.
The representatives of Islam are more mercantile.
The next mystery smacks of mysticism. On the 2nd floor of the southern part of Aya Sofia there is a so-called "cold window". It looks ordinary, overlooking the Blue Mosque. From the window, even in the most intense heat, there is cold air. And the cause has not yet been determined.
The side colonnade has a twisted gold partition. In the 18th century, this was a Muslim library and a school for the study of the Koran. In the gallery behind the library, at a height of 5 metres, a palm print can be seen. It is claimed that it belongs to Mehmed II, the conqueror of Byzantium. Legend tells that the sultan first entered the cathedral directly on a horse. He pushed off the column with his hoof and jumped to a height of 5 metres. Apparently, the legend was created by medieval PR people to elevate the lord. However, the print exists, is popular with guides and tourists. And it's still unclear how it got there.
The next mystery refers to the time of the Latin Empire, when the participants of the 4th Crusade captured Constantinople and divided Byzantium. It did not last long, but the crusaders, led by the Venetian Doge Enrico Dandolo, plundered Aya Sofia and took out many Christian relics. The Doge himself soon died and was buried in the cathedral he had looted. Today his tomb is empty. There is a version that Mehmed II, angered by the fact that Christians robbed Christians, ordered to throw his remains to the dogs.
In the centre, to the right of the altar there are circles lined with coloured stones. It used to be believed that this was the "navel of the Earth", Byzantine emperors were crowned here. Now there are several assumptions - from a symbol of the centre of the universe to a map of celestial bodies (for that period). The most interesting version: these are Gnostic symbols that mean "Christ is Sophia."
An intriguing mystery is the presence under the cathedral of underground labyrinths leading to the palace of Byzantine emperors, a vaulted room on 40 columns, ancient cisterns for collecting water and tunnels upstairs for its supply. Scans confirmed that there was a huge space beneath the cathedral. After an unsuccessful exploration in 1945, Turkish documentary filmmakers took up the search in the 21st century. They discovered catacombs and underground crypts that have yet to be explored..
How to get there
Photo: Zen Zeee. Source: Unsplash
Aya Sofia is located in Sultanahmet Square. The most budget-friendly way to get there is the metro. Here it differs from the classic "underground" and also includes high-speed tram lines and even a couple of cable cars. You can get there directly from the airport. The tram line you need is T1 and the stop you need is Sultanahmet. After leaving the tram station, look along the tracks and you will see what you are looking for. This cathedral is not to be confused with anything else.
If you have a financial opportunity, take a taxi. All you need to say to the driver is: "Sultanahmet, Aya Sofia" and you will be taken to the place.
If you can afford it, take a taxi.
Visiting time depends on the namaz. And the time of namazes, in turn, depends on the position of the sun and varies daily. Tip: in the morning, from about 9:00 to 11:30, there are definitely no namaz. You are guaranteed to get into the cathedral at this time.
If you want a full-fledged tour, it can be bought at any of Istanbul's travel agencies for about $20-25.
