In the historical centre of Istanbul there is an interesting monument of Byzantine architecture - "Cisterna Basilica". The grandiose underground structure was used as a water reservoir ("cistern" in Greek). It was located under a burned Byzantine basilica (hence the second word of the name).
The Basilica Cistern is called Yerebatan ("Underground") Sarayı ("palace") or sarnıcı ("cistern") in Turkish. Many tourists who visit Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul do not know about it. But this landmark is literally under their feet.
History
The underground reservoir was built in Constantinople in the first quarter of the 4th century by order of Emperor Constantine. Its purpose was to provide the city with water in case of enemy siege or drought. Especially since there were no water sources on the territory of Constantinople, and it came to the city through aqueducts.
Seven thousand slaves were involved in the construction. Water from the surrounding mountain springs was used to fill the Basilica Cistern. They were connected by the 20-kilometre-long Valenta Aqueduct (Bozdoğan Su Kemeri) built from the Belgrade Forest. Its surviving fragments can still be seen in the centre of Istanbul.
Two centuries later, under Emperor Justinian I, the Cistern was strengthened and expanded. In addition to it, the water supply system of Constantinople included two more cisterns - Philoxenus and Theodosius. In those times they were connected. From time to time other old cisterns are discovered in present-day Istanbul.
After the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453, their rulers did not learn about the underground reservoir until several decades later. For a while, the Cisterna Basilica irrigated the gardens of the Topkapi Palace, but later this function was transferred to the constructed water pipeline. Since then, only the inhabitants of the centre of the Turkish capital have remembered the Basilica Cistern. They even managed to fish through the earthen openings, often without leaving their homes, and threw rubbish into them.
After that, European travellers, on the tip-off of locals, rediscovered this dungeon several times in Istanbul. The first time it happened in 1553, then - in the XIX century. But the local authorities saw in the former reservoir tourist potential only in the 80s of the XX century.
Fifty thousand tonnes of centuries-old mud and rubbish were removed from the Basilica Cistern. The floor was then concreted over and wooden planks were laid for tourists to avoid walking on water seeping from the ground. The Cistern was also illuminated.
The original tourist site in Istanbul came to the attention of film makers. Some shots of the Russian film "Odyssey" and the American films "Agent 007: From Russia with Love" and "Inferno" were filmed there.
Cistern Today
The entrance to Cisterna is an unassuming one-storey building with the usual queue at the ticket office. An entrance staircase with 52 steps leads downwards. After descending, tourists are pleasantly cool in summer and warm in winter. Information brochures in different languages (including Russian) are waiting for those who come down.
The 12-metre-deep underground reservoir is a rectangular tank measuring 145 by 65 metres, designed to store up to 100 million litres of water. The 4-metre-thick walls are impregnated from the inside with a resin solution with excellent waterproofing properties. Its composition has not been solved: it is assumed that Byzantine builders added egg yolk to the solution.
The vaults of the Cistern Basilica rest on columns of different styles and orders, making it look like an underwater palace. Apparently, these columns were once parts of various pagan structures destroyed by Christians. Such practice was common at that time. The columns are 9-13 metres high and form 12 rows, each of which includes 28 (336 in total). The columns are spaced about five metres apart.
The most famous are the two columns resting on statues of the head of the formidable Medusa Gorgon. They are placed upside down and sideways. Either out of fear of Medusa's direct deadly gaze, or to emphasise the disdain for pagan images. Most likely, the builders simply chose the sturdiest option. One column in the Cistern is always wet: on it one can see images of eyes and tears. This column is thought to be a memorial to the many slaves who died during the years of construction.
The current Cisterna Basilica is a popular tourist attraction. A stroll through it is accompanied by soft music, and illuminated beams pick out floating fish from the water and coins left by tourists at the bottom of the "Fountain of Wishes". The underground of the Cistern has excellent acoustics: concerts are organised here periodically..
How to get there
Address: Istanbul, Alemdar Mh. neighbourhood, Yerebatan Caddesi, 1/3 (on Sultanahmet Square in Fatih district, opposite Aya Sofia). From the airport to the centre of Istanbul is not difficult to reach by metro:
-
first take the red line train to Zeytinburnu station;
-
transfer to the blue line train;
-
travel to Sultanahmet station.
From Taksim Meydanı Square, the Cistern can be reached by a combination of metro and tram:.
-
first take the green metro line to Vezneciler station;
-
walk 300 metres to the tram stop Laleli;
-
take the T1 tram three stops to Sultanahmet.
From the peripheral areas to Sultanahmet Square, trams of the T1 line (along the neighbouring street) get off at the stop of the same name..
Visiting rules
The Basilica Cistern is open daily from 9:00 am to 5:30 pm to 6:30 pm (depending on the season). After the restoration, which ended at the end of July, the ticket price for foreigners has increased to 150 Turkish Liras. The attraction is not included in the Museum Pass Istanbul. The ticket office only accepts cash. In order not to lose time in the queue, it is recommended to approach the ticket office when it opens.
The official ban on photography in the Cistern is not observed by tourists without any consequences for them. However, the prevailing semi-darkness makes it very difficult to get good photos: you have to use a flash. Wealthy and vain travellers can agree to a photo session in a sultan's costume offered at the entrance to the Cistern. Naturally, for him $30 is not money. Female tourists can also take advantage of the service by temporarily pretending to be the sultan's concubines..
